12 Oct 2014

A visit to the Muscat Modern Gate


An unplanned visit leading to an unexpected discovery:

"Never lose an opportunity of seeing anything that is beautiful", Ralph Waldo Emerson

The Muscat Modern Gate - A pencil sketch by me
It was during the Dashami morning of Durga Puja, just at the beginning of this month, when we happened to visit the Shiva temple in the old city area of Muscat, and we passed in a rush from underneath a huge arched opening in a gate. The Gate built in traditional Omani style with pink sandstone, has a series of small niche windows, towers at two ends and crenellations on the top, and resembled a fort-like structure. We decided to stop there and click a few snaps on our return. 

The Gate spanned over two important roads, one leading to the old city and another out of it leading towards the harbour. The Gateway stands at a crucial juncture separating the old city from the new city of Muscat and it signals your arrival to the old city area.
Muscat Modern Gate, Al Saidiya Street, Muttrah

The entrance leading to a circular stairway 
On our return, I got out of our car and while my husband parked his car on a side lane, I started clicking a few snaps. Soon I was joined by my daughter and my husband. My daughter rushed towards a small arched entrance and we ran behind her. Thanks to her, we discovered a circular stairway, leading us onto the next level. 

Somebody has truly said: "Blessed are the curious for they shall have adventures".



The circular stairway - an element of surprise awaited us ahead
I did not count the number of steps but guessing from the height of the arched gateway, there must have been some 50 low rise steps. It was a comfortable climb though. The stairway led us to a tower covered with a wooden ceiling, that finally led us to a grand door announcing the presence of a Museum. We were in for a surprise -  a Museum on a Gateway! 


Our Exploration:

Since it was Friday, the Museum was closed. So we just walked around and happily observed the surroundings. The arched wooden panelled entry door itself was a beautiful piece of work, adorned with red and green glass pieces on the top, with a gold plated relief of the Archway embossed above the door.
The Entry door to the Museum
A corridor, with a series of arches and a row of small fenestration, led us to a vast open green space. There was a manicured lawn in the garden interspersed with wooden benches. There were some small green bushes, rows of bougainvillea flowers lining up the garden edges, and some trees too scattered in the green space. 

The arched corridor leading to a green open space;
Note the play of light created by the fenestration
The lattice work in the fenestration
The garden area interspersed with trees and 
wooden benches for relaxing 
Rows of bougainvillea lined up the garden edges
From this very roof garden, we could see the beautiful vista surrounding us. And I could capture some beautiful pictures through my lenses. On one side, we could see the Muscat Harbour, with a cruise liner far away and the blue sea beyond it. And on the other side we could see the motorway and roads leading into and out of the old city. 


View towards Muscat Harbour
View towards the old city with motorways 
Not satisfied with one click, I kept taking one picture after the another, and I had to grudgingly drag myself out of the place, when my husband tauntingly reminded me that we didn't have the whole day to ourselves, for we were supposed to visit another Durga Puja venue miles away. So we hurriedly rushed out of the roof garden and hopped into our car and proceeded to the Puja venue.

This place must be visited by those who are interested in the Art, Architecture and History of Oman. 

I made a small video using a few stills that captures our trip and highlights the Art and Architecture that embodies the Modern Gate of Muscat.
A video clipping of the visit to the Muscat Gate Museum

Some facts from the web: 

I later found out that till the 1970s, the gates in the town wall of Muscat were closed three hours after the sunset. No one was allowed to walk after sunset unless he had a lighted lantern in his hand. The motor traffic went through a hole in the town wall. This Gateway that we now see is a modern version of the old city gate built across the motorway.

The Wikipedia highlights the facts that the Museum opened in January 2001 and contains displays of Oman's history from Neolithic times to the present. It has some special exhibits on Muscat's water springs, the ancient wells, underground channels, the souks, houses, mosques, harbours and forts. This makes me think that we have to visit the Gateway again,  to see those rare exhibits of the Museum ourselves and get a better understanding of the Art, Architecture and History of Oman.

Concluding :

As they say, that not knowing the future is all the more fun, and surprises are like a ray of hope that keeps you alive in this mundane world. This unplanned trip was full of surprises indeed. We were surprised to find a museum on the top of a gateway. On seeing the Arched Gateway from the ground level, it is beyond one's imagination, that it could house a vast green space above. Also, the beautiful views, that we got to see on both the sides of the Gate, kept us spellbound for quite some time. 

For my daughter, it was like turning into 'Alice' and discovering the "Wonderland" above the gateway. She loved every moment of the trip and I hope she treasures it in her memory. And if not, when she grows up, I hope she finds this blog of mine to relive her memories. 


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