8 Oct 2015

The Tale of a Mechobhoot and a Petni

On being a Probashi Bengali and love for fish...

If you are a Bengali you know for sure that our culture, custom and rituals, life and stories revolve around fish. You would also know that in Bengali 'Mechobhoot' means a ghost who likes to eat fish. 'Mecho' comes from the word 'Machh' (fish in Bengali) and 'Bhoot' means a ghost. While 'Petni' means a female ghost. During my childhood, I remember our granny telling stories from 'Thakumar jhuli' - Bengali folk stories. And one of them I am not sure if it was from the same book or her own collection (grannies are known to have a myriad collection of stories) but it was to do with a Mecho bhoot. I remember her narrating that "then came the mechobhoot and stole away all the fishes from the fisherman's boat..." 

Typically, all Bengalis love fish. Growing up in a Bengali household, sorry a Probashi Bengali household, I was a studious and diligent Bengali girl, who was taught Rabindra sangeet at home and appreciation of other art forms came in naturally. But I had a couple of flaws: one not liking fish....iiish... and another one being my disinterest in cooking.

My mom tried her best to make me eat fish by cooking up all kinds of delicacies with fish; shallow-fried, batter-fried, steamed, baked, minced, curried, and so on, but I somehow hated the smell that came with a fish. And if I ever saw the cleaning and cutting process of the same I would just feel sick to the stomach. On Sunday mornings, my dad would end up with a basketful of fishes: Rui, Katla, Bhetki, Prawns, Pomfret or whatever other sea fishes he could lay his hands on. However, being in Gujarat, not much fish varieties were available. When I would go to my maternal relatives' home, there would be this another trial for me in the form of 'Ilish mach' or Hilsa fish. Now for Bengalis, all other fishes pale in comparison when it comes to Hilsa. And the debate still remains as to which one is superior; Hilsa from the Ganges or the ones from Padma river. Leaving that debate on one side, eating that delicacy cooked in mustard paste, was an ordeal in itself, for it involved separating the flesh intertwined with thin bones and while my cousins happily devoured it, I struggled with the bones. 

Later on as I grew up, my taste buds gradually developed a liking towards fish but only for a few selected varieties. At an age, when all my friends used to help their mom, with household errands especially cooking, I stayed away from it much to the chagrin of my mother and my granny. I believed then that cooking was a waste of time for it involved spending your precious time in the kitchen when you could've done something better.

Being Probashi Bengalis settled in Gujarat, we faced another set of problems when it came to food. You have friends and neighbors who do not appreciate or understand your fish eating habits. A friend of mine who was not from a fish-eating community had some Bengali neighbors. Probably troubled by the smell of fish or whatever, she asked me one day, why is it that Bengalis eat fish. I had to explain to her in detail that it is not just we, but most of the settlements near the sea or rivers have a fish-eating culture. I joked to her saying that fish-eating humans are more intelligent than others and she probably believed it then. 

In fact, fish is a food of excellent nutritional value, providing high-quality protein and lots of vitamins and minerals. The omega-3 fatty acid in the fish is good for the heart. Also, it's easy to digest. Fish of different varieties is a staple diet of not just the state of West Bengal, but other states in India too such as Andhra, Kerala, Odisha, Goa, Assam and other North Eastern states.

Saying that, you cannot enjoy eating fish behind the closed doors of your own home, for the fishy niff transcends all boundaries and travels beyond the closed doors through vents and windows, lands up on your nifty neighbour's tickly nose, and often becomes the cause of rift and rifles! I am sure most of the Probashis would agree with me on this point.  

My granny's words 'mechobhooter shonge biye hobe' (meaning I will be married to a mechobhoot) still rings in my head. If my granny were alive today, she would have been happy to see that the Petni did get married to the Mechobhoot, for my husband is truly a fish lover and so is our daughter. My husband used to bring all sort of fish varieties from the market and I used to be outraged at having to cook them. I was simply annoyed that so many varieties of fish existed. There were times when I didn't cook fish and both these fish lovers (my husband and our daughter) were not satiated enough. So eating fish, along with other side accompaniments, is an everyday affair now. Over the years, I learned that true happiness lies in not just eating what you like, but it is when your family and friends enjoy and appreciate what you cook that makes you most happy. Today I cook and eat even those varieties that I hadn't laid my eyes on ever; pabda, tengra, kechki, koi, magur and more. The fish that was a villain in the love triangle for the love of fish is now an indispensable member of the family.

Staying in the gulf region getting fresh seafood is not a problem but getting fresh river fishes is difficult. They are imported here from Bangladesh and are available in a frozen form and that's what we have to manage with. But there is ample variety of sea fish available in the markets here. And one of the locations is the Karama Fish Market in Dubai. So again for the love of fish we made a trip to the Fish Market. For those who haven't read my post on Fish, Frankincense and a Friday in Muscat must read it before we proceed any further with the tale.

Last Friday, we were out for our routine grocery shopping. Fish was an indispensable item that had to be bought and stocked in advance for the week. We decided to give a try to the sea fishes this time. We headed to Karama fish market in Karama near the Karama Bus Station. It is a typical traditional indoor market with shops aligned in two rows facing the central corridors.
Nupur Acharjya My Travelogues
Karama Fish Market, Dubai
On one side are vegetable selling stores and on the opposite side are fish selling stores. We were happy to see the stock of fresh vegetables. Being away from home, it makes you happier when you see the native vegetables staring at you from the baskets. It was like getting a bonus.
Nupur Acharjya My Travelogues
Fresh Vegetables at the Market
Nupur Acharjya My Travelogues
The fish variety at the Karama Fish Market
Going to the fish side, we were amazed to see the fish variety available. Every shop vendor was welcoming us to their shop. It reminded me of the hawkers in India. If you are good at bargaining, you might end up with a good deal. We were rather shy to bargain but since we were aware of the market prices, we got a fair deal it seems. Also, the fish stock was much fresher than those found in the hypermarkets.

We bought some fresh vegetables along with Salmon, Jumbo prawns, and Tilapia. Back home with the purchase, I was not sure what to do with the Salmon. But then you can't go wrong with Salmon, it's a fish almost everyone loves! So there I was, with a quick search on the internet, had it marinated and shallow fried and served with some salad. And it tasted just great with plain rice and dal fry.

Another was jumbo prawns, personally my favorite, and in fact, all three of us liked prawns. So couldn't screw up the dish. Now, back home my mother and grandmother cooked prawns in various combinations; with bottlegourd (chingri lau) or with cabbage (bandacopi lau) or sometimes even steamed and cooked with mustard paste in banana leaf wraps. Our all time favorite was the Prawns Malai curry which is cooked with coconut milk or coconut paste. The origin of this dish is a matter of debate. Whether to call it 'Malai' or 'Malay' is another thought but then who cares so far as it is pleasing to the palate. So it was decided then - Malai curry it will be. I marinated the prawns overnight and the next day cooked up a delicious meal. Just talking about it will not be enough. So here are a couple of pictures right from my frying pan.  
Nupur Acharjya My Travelogues
Left Inset: Shallow fried Salmon with salad
Right Inset: Jumbo prawns Malai Curry
The curry not only made my Mechobhoot happy, but he complimented me that it was the best curry I ever made. I can imagine the unbelievable expression on my granny's face!

Before I conclude, here's a Bengali folk song for fervent fish lovers. Tangra tabu katan jai....by not so famous but a local artist in India.


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