A for Buildings and B for Architects!

In an Architect's parlance, A is for Architects and B is for Buildings and the two go hand in hand. You cannot have a good building design without a good architect. But do people really agree with this fact? It could be A for Buildings and B for Architects. As you read on, you will know in the end what I mean.

In this post, I have attempted to archive some important Ministry buildings, the photographs of which I have collected during my stay in Muscat. They are a reflection of Contemporary yet Eclectic style of Omani Architecture, and that have rendered a certain character to the urban space in Muscat. 

The roots of Omani Architecture lies in the 1970s, when the process of urbanization accelerated in Muscat. Digging into the history of Omani Architecture, to my surprise, I found that these impressive buildings were not conceptualized by local Architects. The local authorities had resorted to foreign architects and planners. So, what we perceive today as Omani Architecture, was actually conceptualized by non-Omani architects and designers. It was in 1992, that the Municipality of Muscat had issued an ordinance that all the architecture in the city should combine Omani, Arab, Islamic and Contemporary style. Some of the common features noted in most of the Institutional, Residential and Hotel buildings are white color, arched windows, mashrabiyyas (projecting windows enclosed within latticed woodwork lined with stained glass) and fort like crenellations. 

Admirably, most of these buildings are symmetric in nature; low risers not more than 3 to 5 storeys tall (as per the regulations), each unique in its design and form, but characterized by the following Architectural features:

• White facades with rows of arched windows or small fenestrations in response to the hot desert climate.
• Large arched entrances with decorative timber doors and stained glass windows; typical reflection of Islamic Art and Architecture.
• Domes and/or minarets which again reflects Islamic Architecture. These traditional domed roofs serve as a great tool for reducing the radiative heat gains during the daytime and maximize re-radiation at night time.
• Crenellated parapet echoing the Omani Fort Architecture.
• External mashrabiyya screens that are both decorative and functional in nature.

These buildings have been enclosed within beautiful gated compound walls with some including a parking lot, with small garden space in the front with fountains and other beautiful landscaping elements. The grand elevations of most of them are camouflaged with rows of trees and vegetation on all sides, probably to provide a cool shaded environment.

Ministry of Justice and Islamic Affairs:
with a mosque and cafeteria in the complex

Ministry of Justice  and Islamic Affairs:
View from across the street

Ministry of National Heritage and Culture 

Ministry of Oil and Gas

Ministry of Agriculture

Ministry of Transport and Communication:
View of the arched entrance gate

Ministry of Transport and Communication: View from across the street

A Ministry Building next to Ministry of Transport & Communication

Ministry of Interior: Front View with gated compound

Ministry of Interior: View from an adjacent road

Ministry of Housing: Camouflaged with vegetation

The 'Mashrabiyas', which are latticework designed projections, usually found in the houses and palaces of Oman, are visible in many public and government buildings in the city. Most of them act like a balcony and offer privacy which is essential in the Arabic culture. It also plays an important role in providing protection from the hot sun and allows cool air from the street to blow in. This particular element reminds me of the 'Jharokhas' which are typical elements of Rajasthani Architecture found in temples and palaces of India.

The Mashrabiyyas: as viewed on the upper floors of a Ministry Building 

Most of these buildings or rather all of them, have been labeled with large but Arabic fonts (you can notice in the pictures too); making it all the more difficult for expats like us to understand what they mean. Though I had the photographs of these Ministry Buildings in my archived folder since long, I couldn't identify the name or function of each Ministry Building. It took me a good amount of time, to find out what ministries they belonged to from the internet. I got most of the names from the google map, yet some are unknown since they are not tagged even in the maps. In this era of Twitter and the Twitterati, I agree with Jarod Kintz who says: "New streets should be Twitter friendly and be named with hashtags up front. I'd build a house on #LoversLane." 

Two snaps I couldn't resist posting is that of the HSBC bank and a Mosque in Al Khuwair. The Bank Building is an excellent example of lavish architectural finishes with a large golden door at the entrance and huge columns with golden capital. The photo of the Mosque was taken from across a construction site in Al Khuwair during one of my walks. The skyline of Muscat is dotted with innumerable such minarets and this one mosque, with its glass dome and tall minarets, captures attention from far; again a typical example of Contemporary Islamic Architecture. 

HSBC Bank, Al Khuwair Branch, Muscat

A Mosque in Al Khuwair, Muscat

Moving on to other types of buildings here and to get a clear idea regarding the urban character of the city, here are a few pictures of the residential towers that indicates that it is not just 2-3 storeyed structure that are present here, but the urban region is now mushrooming with concrete towers too. However, these are low-rise buildings usually 5 to 6 storeys and not more than ten storeys (again as per regulations). Also noticeable are the covers for window AC units that are mandatory as per regulations here. Though some are beautifully incorporated into the elevation of the building, some conspicuously jut out of the building facade. 

A Residential cum Commercial complex in Al Khuwair

A Residential tower, Al Khuwair

Some Low rise Buildings along the Commercial street of Al Khuwair

The city of Muscat has many more buildings which are excellent examples of contemporary and varied architecture but not much documentation about the same exists to date. Also, I tried to dig into the name of their respective Architects from the internet but could not find any information whatsoever. But then who wants to remember the Architects and who cares about Architecture anyways. 

Most of the citizens and the visitors would remember a building for its form, function, and utility. How many of us know as to who designed the Burj Khalifa in Dubai or the Grand Mosque in Muscat or the Lotus temple in Delhi or the Gateway of India in Mumbai or for that matter what was the thought process or ideas that went into building them. Do we even care or wonder what was the style of architecture - whether it was Vernacular, Modern or Contemporary in style?  And why are we not interested, isn't Architecture a reflection of the society, beliefs and religion, building materials and technological developments of the time? The structures and monuments that we see today will be ruins tomorrow, and history will tell people what we were and what we did. People certainly remember the buildings long after the architect has gone. The Quotes by the French Architect Jean Nouvel probably explains what I am trying to convey - "My buildings are more famous than me". Or perhaps nobody could have said it better than the American Architect Philip Johnson - "All Architects want to live beyond their deaths." And they do live through their buildings! 

And this is what I meant A for Buildings and B for Architects. 

Some Random Street Shots From Muscat

"To me, photography is an art of observation. It's about finding something interesting in an ordinary place...I've found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them." 
Elliott Erwitt, the master of street photography

I am not a professional photographer nor do I go out on the streets with my camera hanging around my neck every time. However as an Architect, my eyes are trained to observe, and often I find interesting things around me that may not make sense to anyone else, but me. Hence, when I am out for any purpose, be it for work, shopping or even a simple walk, I end up clicking snaps with whatever device I have handy and usually it is through my mobile. I have this urge to click and the reason is that the subject of my observation is not only beautiful, but I feel probably they are rare, or hidden from the eyes of the world or sometimes unnoticed and neglected, and that I should capture them through my lenses. Tomorrow they may cease to exist or may not stand the ravages of time, but I would have them frozen in time and in my possession. It is a strange feeling and I don't know how many of you out there would actually relate to what I am trying to say. Also, the subject of my interest are more of buildings and inanimate objects and hardly of people. Sometimes though you may find people in some of my clicks but only so as to reflect the scale of the subject.

I can recollect, how my parents would eagerly look forward, to see the photographs I clicked during my college days, but ended up in disappointment since 95% of the prints (we didn't have digital cameras then) turned out to be of inanimate objects, buildings, streets, and landscapes. But then that's how we were trained in our profession; to observe, perceive and reason. Guided by knowledge and prompted by interest, till today, I practice this habit of photography. 

With the advent of the digital era, the world of photography has revolutionized. Photography has become simpler and archiving them has become easier. During my college days in the late 90s, we looked at prints to decide what to print, now we look at digital images to decide what to publish digitally. I would say that the internet itself is an archive all by itself since it has the largest collection of pictures. All of you would certainly agree that we now spend more than half of our waking lives looking at digital displays. Hence, practically speaking, most of us are archivists ourselves, as we daily view thousands of photographs on the screen, some curiously and some compulsively, be it on our laptops or mobiles. 

"I have an affection for a great city. I feel safe in the neighborhood of man, and enjoy the sweet security of the streets." 
Henry Wadsworth Longfellow on urban sentiments. 

I share the same sentiments...

So, out for my walks many a times here in the city of Muscat, I have wandered in my neighbourhood, within a radius of five kilometres or so, with the sole intention of walking but I couldn't resist some clicks in between those walks. I have managed to capture some pictures of doors and windows, flora and fauna, streets and walkways, and many other elements that go into the making of an urban fabric. Many of you would've read about them in my earlier posts viz. Flowers on the street of Muscat and Just a Pedestrian on the street. Here, in this post, are some random shots from the street which actually gives a glimpse of the Omani Art and Architecture - the grand timber doors with decorative work, the stained glass windows, florid mural work, the geometric designs of the lattice screens, fountains, and fort-like crenellations; these typical elements contribute towards creating a common visual link across the urbanscape.

An entrance doorway of an Office Building:
Note the decorative work in timber

An Arched entrance of a Furniture shop

A Stained-glass Window in a Residential Building

Stained-glass Window in a Residential Apartment

A Florid Mural work in Plaster on the walls in a footbridge

A lattice screen wall in a pedestrian subway

A Compound wall with geometric designs        

The Ornate Metalwork of a Gazebo in a Ministry Park

A walkway in the city - lined with trees

A sprinkler in action -
The frame captures the greens with
a colorful patch of flowers at the corner

The Doves -
Caught the bird in action just as it took off
from the lawns

A Street Lamp in ruins

The HSBC logo with the Bank building in the backdrop

A metal lamp outside a restaurant

A bird on top of the lamp - forms an interesting
composition with the Hotel View in the backdrop

Oman Bowling Centre - Note the Symmetric Elevation of the Building

Oman Club -
Note the Arched entrance commonly found here

A lantern outside a Chinese restaurant -
The lantern beautifully transforms the niche with windows

A Fountain outside a Restaurant 

A Fortified structure of the compound wall in a Ministry building

These snapshots from various locations across the street of Muscat are my treasured possession in my travelogues.

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A Weekend 'Whale'-Spent at the Natural History Museum, Muscat

It was a Saturday morning, a weekend, and there began my daughter's complaints of getting bored at home. So after a quick breakfast, I took her to a nearby green space, where she played for some time, and as we settled down on the lawn to relax, we spotted a board that pointed towards the Natural History Museum. This was the very museum she was telling me about all the while, during her vacations, but I couldn't locate it on the map. She had been there with her summer camp friends. I asked her if she wanted to go there again with me and in return she could be my guide. She agreed.

The signboard near the entrance to the Museum 

Housed in the premises of the Ministry of Heritage and Culture (MOHC) in Al-Khuwair, the Natural History Museum shares space along with another museum building viz. Sayyid Faisal Bin Ali Museum and a Library building. The Sayyid Faisal Bin Ali Museum showcases the fort architecture and traditional artillery, the glimpses of which, we found in the premises. On display were a traditional dhow and a group of cannons. My daughter was not interested in them and she dragged me towards the Natural History Museum.

Left Inset: The Library Building
Middle Inset: The Dhow and the cannons
Right Inset: Entrance to Sayyid Faisal Bin Ali Museum

There was a group of foreign visitors exploring the museum and we followed them in. The arched entrance, of the Museum, was marked with an emblem of a Caracal Lynx (a type of a desert cat) representing Oman's Natural wildlife. Near the entrance, we found a trunk of an old fossil tree about 260 million years old, and that was discovered in Al Wasta region. Thereafter, at the counter we collected our tickets and the information booklet, after making a minimal cash payment of 400 Baisa, wherein the entry fees for kids was 100 Baisa and for adults was 300 Baisa. (Note: 100 Baisa equals approx 16.0 INR). Thankfully I had some free cash stashed in my pockets or else it would have been a futile visit.

The Arched Entrance of the Natural History Museum

About the emblem - Caracal Lynx

Display near the entrance;
A trunk of the fossil tree

The Tickets and the Information Booklet

From there we proceeded on our exploration with my daughter as my guide. But then she was just a 6-year-old kid and since the tour she took was made sometime last year, I took over and explained to her about some of the exhibits. The exhibits were typically housed behind glass panels with information panels, and they included a range of mammals, birds, reptiles, insects, all preserved in actual life-like settings. Looking at the exhibits made me realize what my daughter meant a year ago, when she told me about seeing nothing but 'stuffed animal toys' in the museum.

I asked her if the kids were then explained as to what they saw and her answer was negative. They were taken on a silent tour of the entire museum. So, as we moved from one display to another, I pointed at the explanations and information given in front of every exhibit she found interesting. She was glad to discover a quiz wheel and there followed a wide grin on her face, when on turning the wheel, her guess turned out to be the correct one. Another thing we noticed were the 'magic lights' (termed by my daughter) which were actually the motion sensitive lights that turned on as we moved ahead to study each exhibit.

The Quiz Wheel

The Museum was not a huge building, but rather a small space, that was packed with a lot of information under the same roof. We were happy that we were allowed to take photographs and video recordings too. Here, are a few pictures of some unique and interesting exhibits we found at the museum.

Arabian Tahr

The Arabian Oryx

The Sparrows

Types of Butterflies found in Oman

The Prickly Cockle

On seeing the 'Prickly Cockle,' my daughter was expecting to find a 'big pearl' in it. And then I diverted her attention to the display on Corals. Like her, I too was amazed to learn about corals. They were named cauliflower coral, lettuce coral, brain coral and vase coral; each named after the shape it took.

The Cauliflower Coral

After a complete round of the sections on Oman's geography, geology and local flora and fauna, we proceeded to the adjoining hall which was labeled as the Whale Hall. The entrance of the Whale hall is adorned with the bones of a baleen whale. On entering in, we were as astonished as the other visitors. On display was a huge skeleton of a sperm whale which was washed up on the coastline at Barka (in Oman) in the 1980s. The whale, when found, was 25 years old, 14.0 m long and its live weight could have been 35 tonnes. The hall had other smaller skeletons of dolphins and porpoises, with information and interesting explanations on each of these creatures, their breeding habits and search for food. The local guide escorting the foreign visitors pressed a button and the hall echoed with the call of dolphins and whales.

The entrance to the Whale Hall:
Arched with bones of a baleen whale

 Display outside the Whale Hall:
Part of a jaw from a baleen whale

Skeleton of the sperm whale:
Bone weight - 3.5 tonnes

Information Panel - The World of Whales

We had an amazing time at the Museum learning about the flora and fauna of Oman. Also, it had been a long time since I had actually visited a Museum and it was the first time with my daughter. On visiting the whale museum what amazed us most was the scale of the Skeleton. My daughter commented that she could actually play with her friends there inside that belly which looked like a big cage. And then I made the mistake of reminding her of Pinocchio's adventure when he was swallowed by a big whale, for at the end of the day, I had to narrate the story of Pinocchio with special highlights on the 'whale' portion. However, it was a weekend 'whale'-spent.

Sometimes visiting a quiet place, with your dear and near ones, is more interesting and perhaps more fun than partying with loud music or traveling on wheels for hours. This small trip on a holiday spent with my daughter will always one of the most memorable trips in my travelogues.