Women of Oman - A Date with Dishdasha and Decorum

"There is no chance of welfare of the world unless the condition of women is improved. It is not possible for a bird to fly on one wing." Swami Vivekanand.

Hand in hand - Women from India and Oman

In India, women are worshiped as Maa Durga (for strength), Maa Saraswati (for knowledge) and Maa Lakshmi (for prosperity). Probably no other country respects and worships women the way we do. We all know the role of Indian women in shaping our country's history, the status of women in Independent India, their beliefs, value and culture, the women in our villages and the women in our cities, the status of women in private and public sector, in every section of the society, the role of women in shaping our lives - as mothers, as sisters, as daughters, as wives. Indian women are no more confined to their homes but have : scaled the mountains, been in the space, have led revolts and rebellions, have won several beauty pageants on an International platform, have starred in Hollywood movies, have been the voice of our nation, have been great leaders of the country, been great entrepreneurs and businesswomen, bagged laurels in sports, and so on. I can't think of anything or any place that our Indian women have not ventured into. My salute to the Indian women.

Looking back at the year 2014 a lot of things have happened around the world. Some good, some bad...but as a woman, I wondered, how was the year for us women. What new laws were made, what progress did we achieve, what is the status of us, women, in Independent India or rather what is the status of Indian Women in the current 'Modified' India? Are we safer? Are we stronger? Are we truly independent? The Constitution of India grants equal rights and opportunities to all individuals. But are we really considered as equals in this male dominated society? Are we truly empowered? I leave the answer to you all.

Some of my friends and relatives back in India have asked me several times about the Women in the Gulf region. They were curious about the Arabic culture and questioned me if I too had to wear Burqa on the streets like the Arab women. So this post is for those, who wish to know about the Omani women, their dress, and decorum.

Status of Omani Woman today

Many a times, I have noticed the Omani women in their black cloaks, racing in their sporty cars, ahead of us, standing at the back of the shop counters as salesperson, as accountants in the banks, in offices, in Hospitals as nurses and doctors, and recently as air-hostesses too. Once, in a shopping mall, my husband jokingly asked me to buy a pair of these black cloaks saying they would be more useful here than a pair of jeans. And that made me wonder what it would be to be dressed in black, covered from head to toe 24 hours a day, 365 days in a year. 

Reading about the Omani women, in papers and various other sources, I learned that their status in the History of Oman is completely void. It was only after 1970s that the Sultan empowered the Omani women, offering education to all. In fact, there were no schools for girls in the country till 1970s. Today they are present in every field: as teachers in schools and colleges, in Hospitals, in Ministries, they represent every public and private sector. Yet there are lots of issues regarding the status of women here. An Omani woman has no say when it comes to their marriage, divorce, inheritance and child custody. Women's approval and signature on marriage and divorce documents are not even considered. However, the onus of a family's honor rests on the shoulder of its women; modest, decorous and virtuous daughters and sisters.

Dressing Lingo of Omani Women

Talking about their dressing style. Women wear hijab and abaya. Hijab is Arabic word for loose full-length outer garment worn by women to cover the body, arms, and legs; while hijab is any modest covering worn by Muslim women but most commonly associated with the headscarf.

The national dress for women is called 'Omaniya'. The Omaniya style consists of four basic parts:

• Dishdasha - a dress with long sleeves extending to knees made in colorful prints in cotton or silk

• Sarwal - a trouser worn beneath the dishdasha in colorful prints in cotton or silk

• Waqaya - a 5ft. long head cover with short fringes in solid color (no prints) at times with embroidery

• Lahaf - the head shawl without fringes usually worn in public places

The Burqa

I have seen women here completely covered from the head to the toe, and additionally wearing a mask that covers their entire face with only little slits for the eyes. This was the most repelling dress that I've ever seen a woman in, and I got curious and wanted to know why did they wear such an attire. On researching about the Omani dress I came across the information that in desert regions, women of the Bedouin tribes wear a mask called the burqa. And all this while I thought that Burqa meant a scarf to cover the head and face. Since they actively participate in livestock activities out in the sun, the mask protects their facial skin from the scorching sun and the dusty wind. A close encounter with a woman wearing the burqa during one of our Hospital visits here had nearly scared me out of my wits, for I had never ever seen such a hideous dress worn by women. But ask a Bedouin woman and it is a matter of pride for her. To them, it is not a symbol of oppression rather it shows that a girl is coming to maturity. These masks, made by the women themselves, are in different shapes, but the basic form remains the same.

Below are the sketches of a few Omani dresses that I have observed; different combinations of Abaya (also known as Dishdasha), Hijab and Burqa worn by the Omani women depending on the tribes and region they belong to.

A woman in Sohari Burqa - Mask with only slits for the eyes
Abaya and head scarf all in black

Bedouin Burqa - Mask covering the nose and upper lips
Black Abaya and head scarf with golden embroidery

Bedouin Burqa - covering the forehead,
thin line covering nose and upper lips
Colorful Abaya in solid color or colorful prints

Why Black Abaya?

Women here are commonly seen attired in black abayas. Some women wear long black gloves to cover their hands too. It is said that women here till the 1960s and 70s wore simple but colorful clothing. Many Omanis here blame Iran and Saudi Arabia for the Black Abaya entering into Oman. Most of the girls start wearing the black abaya since the age of 13 or 14. Although their religion doesn't dictate that they should wear black, for some wearing a black abaya is classic and elegant style, for some it's a matter of reputation, for some it's out of fear of the society, while some wear it because they don't want to stand out and become a source of scandal.

Recently noticeable are black Lahafs with golden borders and colorful embroidered designs and black Abayas with golden linings or colored embroidered borders on the necklines and sleeves. Also, most of the women cover their head completely with not even a single strand of their hair being noticeable. But nowadays women are coming out of their shells slowly, especially in the cities, and once in a while we get to see the women with head scarves a little receded, highlighting the crown of their head, with centrally parted hair. Some of the women also have gold or silver jewelry adorning the head scarf. Black Abayas combined with colorful head scarves are in fashion in the city of Muscat. Also, I have noticed some Omani women dressed in Abayas - covered from top to bottom, but noticeable below the Abayas are a pair of tightly fitted denims and fashionable high heeled boots. After all, the times are changing, and with it the trousers are replacing the sarwals.

Black headscarf with golden border
Black Abaya with golden embroidery

Black or colorful Abaya
Gold jewelry adorning the head scarf

Black or colored Abaya
Colorful printed Lahaf 

Black or colorful Abayas, Receded Colorful Lahaf
 Hair of the crown with central parting visible

Modern Omani Woman as seen in the cities

An Omani Woman's attire is incomplete without accessories. Depending upon the tribe, they may wear gold or silver accessories. I have seen some women of the Bedouin tribe wearing lots of silver accessories: silver necklaces, earrings, and beautiful jewelry on the forehead too. For daily use, they wear a type of 'slip on' shoes called the 'Nahl'. The Omani women are also fond of heavy makeup on their faces. I have noticed many women with a bright colored eye-shadows matching with their dresses, but here I am not going to dwell into their cosmetic culture.

Decorum - A sneak peek into the culture of the Omanis

Out of the several years spent in the Gulf, I noticed one thing and that is the hospitality extended by the localites here. Talking just about Oman here, the foreigners are welcomed with open arms and straight from the heart. Rarely will you hear the foreigners or the expats bad mouthing the Omanis. The Sultanate expects us to follow its cultural norms. Though the country is conservative in its traditions, it welcomes modernization in its buildings and infrastructure. But the same cannot be said about its attitude towards women. As I have earlier stated the women here did not occupy an important role until 1970s, and slowly with the Sultan's effort women are now seen both in public and private sector. 

There are written instructions in most of the malls and public buildings about dressing appropriately. Women should wear loose clothing, with arms and shoulders covered. Skirts should cover the knees, and one must carry shawls. Dress codes are less crucial for men. Also innocuous hand gestures are punishable under Omani law if deemed offensive. Often, before an outing here, a lot of my time is spent, in planning what dress I should wear and depending upon the destination and the location, I arrive at a final decision. It is important to be culturally correct and dress appropriately.

Courtesy policy in a mall in Muscat

People here meet with an elaborate formality. A chain of greetings before coming to the point! For example : "Salam waleh qum. Walah qum salam. Kaifa Haaluk. Ana Bikhaiyr, Shukran. Sabah al Khayr. Sabah al noor. Masaa al khayr..,"and so on. Greetings are followed by a handshake (man to man), then inquiry about health, well-being of the family and children, and only after that you proceed with the matter of importance. If you talk about business right away, then they will assume that either you are rude or impatient or not interested in them personally. Also, offer or accept anything being offered with your right hand (same concept as us Indians). While sitting, keep your feet flat on the ground and not cross-legged. And yes, during Ramadan (the month of fasting), eating, drinking and smoking in public is completely banned. It is difficult for expats at times, for even the restaurants remain closed during the daytime and they open in the evening after the prayer time. So in the month of Ramadan, during the lunch hours, if I want to order a food parcel from a Restaurant, in case of an emergency, it is not possible.

Concluding

Compared to other Arab societies, Omani women have traditionally enjoyed higher profiles and active participation in the society. Within the family unit they make strong contributions towards making family decisions, regarding various rites. Omani Women are now seen actively participating in civil services, the defense sector and also appointed in senior government decision making positions. With their presence in top corporate positions in banks and MNCs and as Entrepreneurs, they are not only supporting their families but are also contributing to the economic development of the Sultanate.

Many women (in India, Oman and around the world), are unable to exercise their existing rights because of social pressure, lack of family support and lack of legal knowledge. Educated, trained and professional women contribute to the positive development of any society. With this belief, I hope that the new year 2015, brings education, enlightenment, empowerment and liberty for more women all over the world.

Pray for a better tomorrow for us women 
Pray for the world without fetters,
Pray that we tread without fear,
Pray there is no sadness in our eyes,
Pray each day brings only smiles, 
Pray that our dreams meet with success,
Pray for each step for a better tomorrow.

Sources referred:
www.bu.edu/wcp/Papers/Huma/HumaSing.htm

Language of Dress in the Middle East, by Bruce Ingham, Nancy Lindisfhame

www.centreforomanidress.com
www.everyculture.com
www.countryreports.org
www.reuters.com

Flowers On the Streets of Muscat

"You are here only for a short visit. Don't hurry, don't worry. And be sure to smell the flowers along the way."  Walter Hagen

Life is too short. And most of it is spent in worries. As a child my worries were : the moon being too high in the sky, worried that the rains would ruin the nest in our garden, worried my new tooth will grow too long, scared of the monster staring at me from the tall palm tree, scared of the kitten's claws, scared that a cloud will fall on me, etc. As a teenager I had a different set of worries: feared to tread out in my new hairstyle, worried for hours about a friend's hurtful remarks, mountain of tensions before making a welcome speech, exam fever, returning books to the library on time, and more. Little did I know that as we grow up tensions would multiply and this made me realize that our childhood days were the golden days of our life. As adults, we have new responsibilities and added worries. We constantly worry about our children, families and friends, in-laws and relationships, our career aspirations, bonus and promotions, additional headaches from our bosses, and in this hustle to move from one thing to the next we forget to see the world around us. The simple things in life that give us happiness and pleasure are all forgotten. I forgot how happy I used to be : on finding a butterfly in my garden, on discovering a face in the moon, identifying different shapes in the clouds, the feeling of wet clay in my hand, the pleasant smell after the first rains, digging out a small stone from my backyard, jostling on the streets of our town on my bicycle, counting the petals of the marigold flower, making sand castles and collecting seashells by the seashore, and so many more. These were moments of pure joy and bliss.

In our hustle and bustle of our daily lives, the nature around us becomes invisible. The white fluffy clouds, the silver moon and the bright stars, the shady trees with wild flowers, the warm rays of the sun, the beautiful flowers in our backyard, the birds flying up in the blue sky, our furry friends hiding in the bushes; they slowly disappear.

"Stretching his hand up to reach the stars, too often man forgets the flowers at his feet." Jeremy Bentham

Petunias on the street of Muscat

"Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens"...now doesn't that remind you something? It is my favorite song from The Sound of Music (A classic movie from 1965), and it brings back many childhood memories. I've always associated this song with my favorite things too. And flowers are one of my favorite things. My parents nurtured every plant and tree in our garden, watering them, pruning and trimming them regularly. We, sisters too, were encouraged, to take part in the gardening activities. So once in a while, though I loved flowers, I wasn't happy with carrying out my gardening duties, for it meant sacrificing my playtime with friends. Although, once in a blue moon, I still helped in watering the plants (only the flowering ones and left the big trees for my parents). We had a variety of flowers in our garden viz. roses, rajanigandhas, chrysanthemums, cannas, jasmines, kaners, lilies, marigolds, white frangipanis, blue bells, hibiscus, and half a dozen more.

Whenever I take my daughter out for walks, I show her the flora and fauna around us so that she too learns about the nature around her and learns to appreciate the little wonders of nature. In this post, I intend to highlight some of these flowers that we found on our way during our walks on the streets of Muscat.

White Petunias on the street

It is said that Oman enjoys floristic influence of two continents - Africa and Asia. It is winter time when the temperature here is milder and the streets of Muscat are raided with a riot of colors. We found lots of Petunia flowers in pink, blue, purple, white, yellow and black ones too, all around the city. But most of the flowers that I found on the streets of Muscat are commonly found in India too. Here's a glimpse of some of the flowers I could easily identify and captured with my lenses.

The Red Petunias - a genus of 35 species,
native of South America

The Blue Petunias

The Purple Petunias

Deep Pink Petunias

Hybrid Pink Petunias

Black Petunias

The Yellow Bells (Piliya in Hindi), also called Yellow Trumpets,
native to Americas, but introduced to other regions too.

White Ixora (Indian Pavetta - Rugmini in Hindi), native to Asia,
there are 400 species spread from Africa to India to Southern Asia

Red Ixora (Indian Pavetta -Rangan in Bengali)

Bougainvillea (Booganbel in Hindi), named after a
French Navigator who came across it in Brazil in the 18th C.

The Oleander flower (Kaner in Hindi), a native shrub
of India and the Mediterranean

The Kaners (Raktakarobi in Bengali)

Marigold (Genda in Hindi)

Crape Jasmine (Taggar in Hindi),
also called pinwheel flower, native to India

Canna or Canna Lily (Keli in Hindi),
a native to South America 

"Just living is not enough, one must have sunshine, freedom and a little flower." Hans Christian Anderson

Roundabouts in Muscat - Freedom Circles

Do you ever go back and read news about your hometown? I do it quite often. A couple of months back I read that the State government of Gujarat created an SPV (Special Purpose Vehicle), to promote the city of Vadodara as the Cultural capital of Gujarat during the Vibrant Gujarat Global Investors Summit. This is the first time ever that a state government has ever created a SPV for promoting tourism. I was glad that my parents selected Vadodara for settling down after retirement.

For those of you who don't know, Vadodara is the third largest city in Gujarat (after Ahmedabad and Surat). Though it may not be the hottest or the hippest city in the state, the youngsters are lured to the city due to the presence of good schools and colleges, industries, restaurants, shopping malls and multiplexes, and more, all at an accessible distance. The presence of heritage buildings, temples, beautiful gardens and the pleasant weather, make it a comfortable city for the older generation, no matter how big or small is one's savings account. For us, being Probashi Bengalis (a Bengali living outside Bengal) with our roots in West Bengal, the city of Vadodara served our purpose: it was a peaceful locality, easy availability of basic necessities, hoards of like-minded Probashi Bengali friends, cultural diversity with amalgamation of people from all over the country, and our unending quest for art, music and cultural inclinations were quenched.

Apart from being an educational, industrial and cultural hub, Vadodara is also one of the safest city for women and you can count my vote on that. For years traveling within this city, be it at morning or the night, has never been an issue for me. I remember giving crisp instructions to the rickshaw-wala "Bird circle chalo aur aage se left lena...." (Take me to the Bird circle and then turn left) or "Genda Circle se seedhe lena..." (Go to the Rhino circle and then keep straight) or "Ellora circle chalna hai" and more and we women safely reached our destination. No need for Uber taxis!

Now why am I harping about the city of Vadodara and about a set of instructions to a rickshaw-wala? What connection does that have to do with my musings in Muscat?

Well, here's the connection between Vadodara and Muscat - Roundabouts. I admired the city of Vadodara for its roundabouts. And Muscat is another city with beautiful roundabouts. I am sure many of you use roundabouts as a mean to remember places and reach your destination without any confusions. So what's there to talk about traffic roundabouts? There are roundabouts all around the world. They are an essential element of traffic systems around the world. 

Al Wizarat Roundabout, Al Khuwair, Muscat

For those who are interested, here's an exact definition of roundabouts as per 'Manual on uniform traffic control devices' - A circular intersection with yield control of all entering traffic, channelized approaches and appropriate geometric curvature, such that travel speeds on the circulatory roadway are typically less than 50km/h. Contrary to our belief that roundabouts, traffic circles and rotaries all mean the same, in the US, the roundabouts and traffic circles are clearly defined to be separate entities. In a roundabout, the entering traffic must always yield to traffic in the circle while in a traffic circle the entering traffic is either controlled by stop signs or is not formally controlled.

Many research studies show that compared to the signals, the roundabouts are better aided to control traffic and are safer too. Below are highlights from some of these research (the figures may vary) which makes me vote for the roundabouts.

• Roundabouts result in 90% reduction in fatal crashes
• 75% reduction in injury crashes
• 30-40% reduction in pedestrian crashes
• Carry 30-50% more vehicles than similar sized signal intersections during rush hours because traffic is always on the move.
• Maintenance costs are less than traffic signals since they cut the electricity expenses for stop-lights and there is no cost of equipment.
• Encourage slower speeds and allow easier decision making
• Improve pedestrian safety

The above research findings clearly indicate that roundabouts are a better street element than traffic signals. They should be adopted in all the cities for they are safer, greener and more aesthetically pleasing than crossroads or traffic lights. Roundabouts can be designed to accommodate appropriate demand volumes such that they are more efficient than a signal intersection. 

An interesting finding is that the amount of space a roundabout needs for its approach road is less than that required for signal or controlled intersections. The residual space provides room for wider sidewalks and landscaping. The centre of the roundabouts can be transformed into gardens, contain statues or public art and serve as an identity for a particular neighbourhood. A person associates an image of the neighbourhood or community through these roundabouts. It aids in enhancing the driver attentiveness, reduces automobile idling and efficiently stream traffic through an area. They are more cost effective and safer than intersections that require electricity. 

Also, roundabouts can aid in increased economic activity. Studies indicate that areas having roundabouts have prospering business especially those that rely on drive-by and impulse buying. Hence, gas stations, quick stopovers for grocery purchase, coffee shops, and restaurants usually thrive around these roundabouts. Roundabouts aid in calming the traffic, so driving at a slow speed, a person gets a better chance to view the Signage and the Buildings. Chance of finding a mode of transport (viz. taxi/cab or a bus waiting for customers), near  a roundabout is also higher than in other locations. 

Ask me about red lights at traffic signals. I hate them. From my personal commuting experience (to and fro from my home to my workplace), I can say that red lights are a total nuisance when you want to reach your workplace on time or when you want to reach home early. They delay your journey, make you impatient and are generally annoying. I remember seeing funny and annoying things that people do; not only the one on the driver's seat but also those on the passengers' seat. Here's a small list of the funny and annoying things I observed : Nose picking, makeup addicts reapplying makeup to their already made up faces, fiddling with the steering wheel, playing with the mirror, sliding windows to smoke, boringly watch at the vehicles flanked on each side, gulping down a drink or too, belching after hungrily gorging up a McDonald burger, taking photo of girls in the next car, rolling down the window and play the music loud for all to hear, gargling and mouth-washing, and here's the most annoying one - suddenly sliding down the windows for shooting out the betel nut chews. I can probably dedicate an entire blog on these annoying instances! 

While the traffic signals are annoyingly boring, the roundabouts have a story to tell. They transform the monotonous driving routine into a pleasurable experience. 

There are beautiful roundabouts in Oman, each one unique in its design and a piece of art. I termed these roundabouts as Freedom Circles - freedom from annoying, polluted and congested signal lights. The construction of roundabouts here blends modernity with heritage and history, and reflects the artistic bend of mind of the Omanis. Also, combined with these beautiful roundabouts, the excellent road network intertwined with green patches and flowerbeds, transform Oman's image from a desert land into that of a tropical region.

A road flanked with floral beds and lawns interspersed with palm trees, Muscat

Each roundabout here has a distinct relation to Oman's culture. I have seen incense burners, teapots, coffee urns, fishes, dhows, a treasure box, khanjars (daggers), and more as centre-pieces in these roundabouts. The teapots and the coffee urns are a reflection of Omani Hospitality. The Khanjar is the national symbol of the Sultanate of Oman, is depicted in the national flag, in the currencies, and can be seen in many important public buildings. The dhows symbolize the significance of this country as a seafaring nation. Every roundabout here is amazingly beautiful. They are designed considering every small detail and are meticulously maintained by the municipality. Circular borders separate these roundabouts from the tarmac road, then there is well laid gently sloping grass and flower beds, and finally the centre piece which adorns the roundabout. I take a chance here to highlight a few of the roundabouts in Muscat.

The Burj Al Sahwa Clock Tower, Seeb, Muscat
This clock tower roundabout greeted us when we entered Muscat from the International Airport. 'Burj' in Arabic means Tower while 'Sahwa' means awakening. This 50.0m tall tower was built in 1985 to commemorate Oman's 25 years of Renaissance hence the name 'Sahwa' tower. It is made up of four columns with archways on the top. A large clock adorns each side of the tower. The clock has ornate black hands on a white face with Arabic numerals. Surrounded by large panels that present images of Oman's rich history, it is useful as a speedy introduction to passengers arriving in the country and as a final farewell to those departing too. 

The Al Sahwa roundabout, Seeb, Muscat
( a pencil sketch)

The Fish Roundabout in Muttrah, Muscat
The Al-Samak or Fish roundabout is a beautiful roundabout with the central piece as a pair of fishes. It is surrounded by two layers - the inner circle is a circle of fountains while the outer one is a bed of flowers. Another circle of a concrete layer separates it from the tarmac road. As I had mentioned in one of my earlier post, fishing is an important economic activity for the Omanis and a fish symbolizes fertility and prosperity.

The Fish Roundabout - Al Samak Roundabout, Muscat
(a pencil sketch)

Riyam Roundabout, near Riyam Park, Muscat
This roundabout, with decorative gold waterpots as the central piece, has water flowing out from each of the pots. It has an outer circle embedded with flower beds and then another circular ring in concrete to separate it from the tarmac road. The pitchers, in the centre piece, is another important link to Oman's culture. Pottery making is an ancient industry for Oman. The pots known as 'jihal' are used for keeping water, the 'khuroos' is used for keeping dates and water, smaller ones are used for keeping honey, and 'brams' are used as cooking utensils.

Riyam roundabout near Riyam park, Muscat
(a pencil sketch)

Roundabouts render a character to the city and its precincts. People often associate a city with these landmarks. Unfortunately, increase in population growth and increase in vehicle ownership has resulted into increased pressure on the traffic control systems and this has made the Oman municipality rethink over its existing roundabout spaces. The trend is now to convert these roundabouts into signalized intersection. Two beautiful roundabouts in Oman were razed completely viz. Sohar Globe roundabout in Sohar and the Wadi Kabir Bakhoor roundabout in Muscat, to make way for fly-overs, to ease the traffic flow.

No more - Globe roundabout, Sohar, Oman

No more - Bakhoor roundabout, Wadi Kabir, Muscat

The Oman's Municipality justified that the main reason to remove these landmark roundabouts was to avoid traffic jams. At the same time, it is installing roundabouts at other locations and new ones can be seen sprouting from time to time.

Trivia on Roundabouts:

• Widespread use of modern roundabouts began in UK in the 1960s while in the US they emerged in 1990s.
• France has the largest number of roundabouts in the world - more than 30,000.
• World's largest roundabout: Queen's Park Savannah in Trinidad and Tobago  - This park in Port of Spain is the largest open space there and is the world's largest roundabout. Also known as the Savannah, it occupies 1.1 sq km area and has a diameter of about 3.5 km.
• Putrajaya in Malaysia also claims to have the largest roundabout in the world with a diameter of 3.5 km.
• The largest roundabout in India is Swaraj roundabout in Thrissur, Kerala. This roundabout occupies an area of  64 acres and in the centre is a popular Shiva temple. All the roads of Thrissur connect to this roundabout.

Sources referred:
www.uc.edu
www.wsdot.wa.gov
www.bikewalk.twincities.org
Wikipedia
gulfnews.com
tourismoman.com
roundaboutresources.org

A Glimpse of Salalah - Loved, Laughed and Lived!

Last weekend I was simply sorting the pictures in my laptop, when I came across some beautiful snapshots of Salalah while we stayed there. So as I shuffled them one by one, I recollected some pleasant memories; of green valleys and rocky caves, winding roads around the misty mountains, sunsets on the sandy beaches, dolphins in the blue sea, plethora of flowers in the green gardens, random picnics and outings with friends, hospitality of friends, long drives through the mist, views from the hilltops, views from my balcony, soft drizzles on the window panes and many such memories just ran into my mind. As I reminisced about these old memories I decided to share with my friends some stories from the place where we resided for more than two years from mid of 2010 to 2012.

Salalah from my Balcony - Aug 2011

Qurum Natural Park - Chirping Birds and a Paradise

A thought to begin with: 

"Nature surrounds us from parks and backyards to street and alleyways. Next time you go out for a walk, tread gently and remember we are both inhabitants and stewards of nature in our neighborhoods." Scientist David Suzuki

The above quote by the Canadian Scientist David Suzuki is very true in today's context. We are responsible for our natural surroundings. We have to live with them and nurture them too. This post is not just about a beautiful park in Oman, but I also want to highlight how every park, gardens and other green patches here are taken care of extensively by the Municipality. I have seen gardeners religiously tending to the plants, pruning, cutting and watering them regularly. Though the climatic conditions are harsh here, the green patches are minutely observed and taken care of on a daily basis. People here are responsible and keep their surroundings clean by not littering. A green space is an important breathing space woven into the urban fabric and needs to be nurtured.

Al Qurum Natural Park 

A Sketch of the Gazebo in Qurum Natural Park

We had heard a lot about this park called Qurum Natural Park, but had never been there due to the hot weather in Muscat. And then one fine day it was my daughter who insisted we take her to a park. So that evening a trip to the park was planned. Passing by the Qurum Beach road we took a turn towards our right and within a few kilometres we reached the park. It was a holiday and the parking lot was crowded. After a long wait for about 15min we finally got a parking space.

The entrance to the garden looked like a huge fort like structure with crenellations on the top and rose murals adorned the walls. The garden is also called Rose garden and it is said that the garden is filled with roses during the winter season. However we made our visit in the month of September hence we couldn't find a single rose due to the hot weather.

The large fort like entrance

The rose mural on the entrance walls

As we entered the park we were pleasantly surprised to find so much of green space. The park was interspersed with green manicured lawns, large trees including the date palms, beautifully designed flower beds, various pavilions, water fountains and shaded kiosks for relaxing. 

A colorful plan highlighting the prime areas of the garden was distributed at some intervals to guide the visitors. The Qurum Natural Park was opened in 1993 and it is the largest park in Muscat, spread over an area of 400 acres. 

The Plan of the Qurum Natural Park

Moving ahead from the park entrance

The weather was hot and we perspired all the same. As we proceeded further we found play areas for kids with colorful slides and swings. My daughter had found her destination for the day. And she would not budge from there. After several attempts of sliding up & down and running around, we finally moved ahead.

Slides for the kids

Further ahead we found a star shaped fountain. 

The star-shaped fountain

Moving ahead we came across an amphi-theatre space with a central fountain and surrounded by beautiful screens and floral beds. On one side an entry led to the Marah Land (Marah means city of joy) - a fun land for kids with various rides. Marah land has more than 28 special rides and games for kids of all age groups. It was with great difficulty that I had to steer away my daughter's attention from this place. And we moved further to explore the natural beauty of the garden.

The floral bed

The amphi-theatre space with fountain

Entry to Marah Land

The beautiful screen

Another entrance led us towards the lake. The lake was surrounded with beautiful gazebos   covered with golden domes. There was a jogging track around the lake and we found several people walking and jogging around. Being a holiday the entire park was crowded with people - some playing with their kids, some having picnics, some hanging out with their  friends, while some just relaxing on the green lawns. 

The gazebos overlooking the lake

The golden dome over the gazebo

After circling the entire lake we found the dancing fountains. The fountains went on after every 30 minutes. 

The Dancing Fountains

There was another lake theatre where we saw some children practising skate boarding. The theatre is said to have a seating capacity of more than 3,000 and is known to be one of the largest public theatre in Oman. It is said that a lot of major public events took place here due to its strategic location in the park. Being located in the interiors and surrounded by the greens it remains cooler during the summers and is unaffected by the noise from the outside. 

After a tiresome walk around the lake we settled down and had tea and snacks from one of the several food stalls out there in the garden. There was a signboard which showed free wi-fi connection but we didn't try to check it out. We were very happy to find this beautiful green garden in a desert land. There were lots of flowers all around including cannas, periwinkles, bougainvilleas and basil bushes. And all the while, we had the company of the chirping birds. 

The orange canna flowers

The yellow canna flowers

'Qurum' is the Arabic word for Mangrove. On the farthest corner of the garden, there is an artificial waterfall. The continuous waterfall has formed an ecosystem of grass and wetland. This is a home to several birds such as the Egrets, Cormorant, red wattled Plover and black winged Stilt. We spotted some crows and cormorants. But if you are lucky enough and visit this park early in the morning in the months of Winter, you may spot most of these birds. Actually this park can also be called a bird watcher's paradise.

Qurum park has been designed beautifully using the natural topographic features of the area to create a comfortable space for all the visitors. What is more I admired the intricate details put in each of its structure beginning from the sculpted floral beds, the lamp posts, the colorful pavements, the lights, the wooden trellis holding flowering creepers, the gazebos surrounding the lake, various sit-outs, the waterfalls, and the small elements including the trash bins.

The trellis holding creepers

Covered sit-outs in the park

Different types of Decorative flower beds in the park

The base of the lamp posts

The lamp posts along the walk ways

The floral motif carved on the lake walls 

The fountain lights 

The lights and the entrance canopy to Marah Land

The flooring pattern of the paved area in the amphitheatre

A lot of activities take place in this park from hosting international exhibitions to fashion shows, exhibition pavilions and walk/jog for a cause and so on.

Qurum Natural Park is synonymous with green landscapes, beautiful floral beds, tweeting of the birds, water fountains and yes it is a jogger's paradise. We were surprised to find beautifully manicured lawns and a well maintained park in the middle of a desert land and wondered why we hadn't discovered it earlier. It was like an oasis in the desert. This is the place to be if you are looking for peace and serenity and at the same time you are not alone as chirping birds will accompany you all along the way.

The chirping birds and the greens inspired me to write a few lines. So here it is:

Chirping Birds and a Paradise

Sitting by the lake as I swayed my legs,
My heart fluttered with the chirping birds.
In a green paradise with the bird's song,
Nothing would possibly go wrong.
The sweet smell of bushes drifted with the wind,
I looked at the greens and foolishly grinned.
Stirred by the birds singing,
A voice in my ears ringing.
My eyes glistened like that of a new bride,
A paradise was simply brushed aside.
The lights reflected in the lake,
Umpteen promises you make.
The dark sky glimmered with a thousand stars,
Come dawn and they too shall disappear.