28 Dec 2024

Delhi to Agra - One day Winter trip:

Taj Mahal & Winter Crowd! 

A trip to Agra had been on our family bucket list for a long time, and we finally made it happen, thanks to the enthusiasm of our daughter. As soon as her exams were over, she insisted that we make the trip, and we couldn't resist the opportunity to explore this iconic destination together. 

We embarked on a one-day trip to the Taj Mahal, leaving Delhi at around 8:00 am in the morning to make our way to Agra at our own pace. The journey took us about three hours via the Yamuna Expressway, and we took a 15 minute break along the highway to stretch our legs and enjoy the view.

The expressway was well-developed, which reminded me of my last visit to Uttar Pradesh as a teenager. Back then, the journey had been quite exhausting due to the bumpy ride on a public bus. This time, however, the smooth drive was a welcome change. We passed green fields on either side of the road, and the highway was almost empty, which made the journey even more pleasant. The driver seemed to enjoy the smooth ride as well, as we cruised through several fast tag toll gates. It was a reminder that while the government provides excellent roads, you do need to pay for them!

The weather was perfect—a bright, sunny day that offered a welcome escape from the cold weather in Delhi. We finally reached Agra by 11:45 AM. The driver parked the car in a parking zone near the eastern gate, and we were all set to explore the majestic Taj Mahal.

Traffic circle in Agra


Our trip began with the simple act of hiring an auto-rickshaw to take us to the Eastern Gate. The fare was around Rs. 50/-, a not so modest fee for a short ride, but what lay ahead was far from ordinary. We had booked our tickets online and weren't expecting long queues. As we neared the gate, we were met by a sight we hadn’t anticipated: a long line of people stretching as far as the eye could see. It seemed as though every citizen of the country had chosen this very moment to visit the Taj Mahal. According to a guard, the huge crowds were due to the winter vacations, when many people flock to tourist destinations.

The line was long, and our patience was tested. At the entry, we encountered the strict security checks by the CRPF. There were separate queues for men and women, with an additional line for ladies carrying bags. It felt a little like being at a high-security airport rather than a historical site.

But then came the most surprising part: the CRPF lady officer asked me to open my purse. What followed was a peculiar exchange when she found my half-eaten chocolate bar and asked me to leave it there. I tried to explain that I had low blood pressure and needed a quick snack at regular intervals, but her response was cold and rude. In the end, I reluctantly surrendered the chocolate—preferring to give up a small treat than ruin the rest of the visit.

Eastern Gate

After passing through security, we headed slowly toward the mausoleum itself. The anticipation of seeing the Taj Mahal up close was high, but the long walk to the entrance had already begun to take its toll. Dodging the crowds and the maze of individuals posing for photoshoots we decided to take a moment to admire the peaceful Yamuna River, visible from the rear side of the monument. The river's calm, soothing presence was a welcome contrast to the chaos around us.

Tourists along the Riverside

We traced our way back towards the mausoleum, where we received our shoe covers before joining the long line leading inside.

Crowded Taj precincts

By this point, we felt as though we were part of a stampede. The crowd was pushing and shoving to reach the small door that led into the mausoleum, and it seemed like everyone was determined to get there first. The rush was intense, and we genuinely feared there might be an accidental stampede as people tried to squeeze through the narrow opening. 

As we stood inside gazing at the intricate marble carvings and moving slowly with the crowd, a local guard nearly jumped on us, hurling foul language and urging us to move quickly as though we had disturbed the eternal rest of Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal. 

Exiting the Mausoleum towards the riverside

Exiting the mausoleum was a relief, almost like escaping from a claustrophobic nightmare—relieved from the crush of the crowd and the terrifying guard. We took a few family photos and tried to soak in the atmosphere, but the exhaustion was real. It was past lunchtime, and we were feeling both drained and hungry. However, as we had discovered earlier, there were no food stalls or places to grab a bite within the Taj Mahal premises.

The gates in red limestone & marble inlays

We found a wooden bench to collapse onto, simply taking in the view of the majestic building in front of us quenching our thirsty throats with some water. The chaos of the crowd continued all around us. Groups of School children were running by, tourists from all over the country, and a few foreign tourists were all gathered, some hanging on every word of the local tour guides, who passionately narrated the history of the Taj Mahal. Some facts, some seemed a little stretched, but it was clear that these guides were working hard for their daily income, weaving stories that didn't harm anyone.

The view from our wooden bench 

Despite the overwhelming number of people, the Taj Mahal stood tall, majestic, and almost ethereal in the sunlight. The white marble glistened as if it were made of pure light. 

I couldn’t help but notice that the surrounding gardens were somewhat underwhelming. The greenery was present but not as vibrant or well-maintained as one might hope. There were hardly any flowering trees, sparse topiary, and barely any fountains to add to the charm.

The not so impressive green precincts 


Walking past the greens

We summoned all our energy to head back to our parking spot. It was almost 4:00 pm in the evening and we were famished. We had hot parathas and tea on the way before heading back home. No shopping, no more site seeing. After a good 3 hour journey we were back home. 

We arrived home around at 8:00 PM, having spent a long but memorable day exploring one of the world’s most iconic landmarks. The trip had its challenges—crowds, security, and the absence of food stalls—but it was still an experience worth having. If you have time in hand, Agra has many good restaurants in the city. And we leave that to be explored some other time... 

Trip cost including driver's fare + fuel cost + tolls + online entry fee + lunch. Cost us around INR 2000/- per person. 

If you’re planning a trip to the Taj Mahal during the peak season, be ready for the crowds, but also prepared to be awestruck by the beauty of the monument in all its grandeur. 

The Taj Mahal in all it's glory