8 Oct 2015

The Tale of a Mechobhoot and a Petni

On being a Probashi Bengali and love for fish...

If you are a Bengali you know for sure that our culture, custom and rituals, life and stories revolve around fish. You would also know that in Bengali 'Mechobhoot' means a ghost who likes to eat fish. 'Mecho' comes from the word 'Machh' (fish in Bengali) and 'Bhoot' means a ghost. While 'Petni' means a female ghost. During my childhood, I remember our granny telling stories from 'Thakumar jhuli' - Bengali folk stories. And one of them I am not sure if it was from the same book or her own collection (grannies are known to have a myriad collection of stories) but it was to do with a Mecho bhoot. I remember her narrating that "then came the mechobhoot and stole away all the fishes from the fisherman's boat..." 

Typically, all Bengalis love fish. Growing up in a Bengali household, sorry a Probashi Bengali household, I was a studious and diligent Bengali girl, who was taught Rabindra sangeet at home and appreciation of other art forms came in naturally. But I had a couple of flaws: one not liking fish....iiish... and another one being my disinterest in cooking.

My mom tried her best to make me eat fish by cooking up all kinds of delicacies with fish; shallow-fried, batter-fried, steamed, baked, minced, curried, and so on, but I somehow hated the smell that came with a fish. And if I ever saw the cleaning and cutting process of the same I would just feel sick to the stomach. On Sunday mornings, my dad would end up with a basketful of fishes: Rui, Katla, Bhetki, Prawns, Pomfret or whatever other sea fishes he could lay his hands on. However, being in Gujarat, not much fish varieties were available. When I would go to my maternal relatives' home, there would be this another trial for me in the form of 'Ilish mach' or Hilsa fish. Now for Bengalis, all other fishes pale in comparison when it comes to Hilsa. And the debate still remains as to which one is superior; Hilsa from the Ganges or the ones from Padma river. Leaving that debate on one side, eating that delicacy cooked in mustard paste, was an ordeal in itself, for it involved separating the flesh intertwined with thin bones and while my cousins happily devoured it, I struggled with the bones. 

Later on as I grew up, my taste buds gradually developed a liking towards fish but only for a few selected varieties. At an age, when all my friends used to help their mom, with household errands especially cooking, I stayed away from it much to the chagrin of my mother and my granny. I believed then that cooking was a waste of time for it involved spending your precious time in the kitchen when you could've done something better.

Being Probashi Bengalis settled in Gujarat, we faced another set of problems when it came to food. You have friends and neighbors who do not appreciate or understand your fish eating habits. A friend of mine who was not from a fish-eating community had some Bengali neighbors. Probably troubled by the smell of fish or whatever, she asked me one day, why is it that Bengalis eat fish. I had to explain to her in detail that it is not just we, but most of the settlements near the sea or rivers have a fish-eating culture. I joked to her saying that fish-eating humans are more intelligent than others and she probably believed it then. 

In fact, fish is a food of excellent nutritional value, providing high-quality protein and lots of vitamins and minerals. The omega-3 fatty acid in the fish is good for the heart. Also, it's easy to digest. Fish of different varieties is a staple diet of not just the state of West Bengal, but other states in India too such as Andhra, Kerala, Odisha, Goa, Assam and other North Eastern states.

Saying that, you cannot enjoy eating fish behind the closed doors of your own home, for the fishy niff transcends all boundaries and travels beyond the closed doors through vents and windows, lands up on your nifty neighbour's tickly nose, and often becomes the cause of rift and rifles! I am sure most of the Probashis would agree with me on this point.  

My granny's words 'mechobhooter shonge biye hobe' (meaning I will be married to a mechobhoot) still rings in my head. If my granny were alive today, she would have been happy to see that the Petni did get married to the Mechobhoot, for my husband is truly a fish lover and so is our daughter. My husband used to bring all sort of fish varieties from the market and I used to be outraged at having to cook them. I was simply annoyed that so many varieties of fish existed. There were times when I didn't cook fish and both these fish lovers (my husband and our daughter) were not satiated enough. So eating fish, along with other side accompaniments, is an everyday affair now. Over the years, I learned that true happiness lies in not just eating what you like, but it is when your family and friends enjoy and appreciate what you cook that makes you most happy. Today I cook and eat even those varieties that I hadn't laid my eyes on ever; pabda, tengra, kechki, koi, magur and more. The fish that was a villain in the love triangle for the love of fish is now an indispensable member of the family.

Staying in the gulf region getting fresh seafood is not a problem but getting fresh river fishes is difficult. They are imported here from Bangladesh and are available in a frozen form and that's what we have to manage with. But there is ample variety of sea fish available in the markets here. And one of the locations is the Karama Fish Market in Dubai. So again for the love of fish we made a trip to the Fish Market. For those who haven't read my post on Fish, Frankincense and a Friday in Muscat must read it before we proceed any further with the tale.

Last Friday, we were out for our routine grocery shopping. Fish was an indispensable item that had to be bought and stocked in advance for the week. We decided to give a try to the sea fishes this time. We headed to Karama fish market in Karama near the Karama Bus Station. It is a typical traditional indoor market with shops aligned in two rows facing the central corridors.
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Karama Fish Market, Dubai
On one side are vegetable selling stores and on the opposite side are fish selling stores. We were happy to see the stock of fresh vegetables. Being away from home, it makes you happier when you see the native vegetables staring at you from the baskets. It was like getting a bonus.
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Fresh Vegetables at the Market
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The fish variety at the Karama Fish Market
Going to the fish side, we were amazed to see the fish variety available. Every shop vendor was welcoming us to their shop. It reminded me of the hawkers in India. If you are good at bargaining, you might end up with a good deal. We were rather shy to bargain but since we were aware of the market prices, we got a fair deal it seems. Also, the fish stock was much fresher than those found in the hypermarkets.

We bought some fresh vegetables along with Salmon, Jumbo prawns, and Tilapia. Back home with the purchase, I was not sure what to do with the Salmon. But then you can't go wrong with Salmon, it's a fish almost everyone loves! So there I was, with a quick search on the internet, had it marinated and shallow fried and served with some salad. And it tasted just great with plain rice and dal fry.

Another was jumbo prawns, personally my favorite, and in fact, all three of us liked prawns. So couldn't screw up the dish. Now, back home my mother and grandmother cooked prawns in various combinations; with bottlegourd (chingri lau) or with cabbage (bandacopi lau) or sometimes even steamed and cooked with mustard paste in banana leaf wraps. Our all time favorite was the Prawns Malai curry which is cooked with coconut milk or coconut paste. The origin of this dish is a matter of debate. Whether to call it 'Malai' or 'Malay' is another thought but then who cares so far as it is pleasing to the palate. So it was decided then - Malai curry it will be. I marinated the prawns overnight and the next day cooked up a delicious meal. Just talking about it will not be enough. So here are a couple of pictures right from my frying pan.  
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Left Inset: Shallow fried Salmon with salad
Right Inset: Jumbo prawns Malai Curry
The curry not only made my Mechobhoot happy, but he complimented me that it was the best curry I ever made. I can imagine the unbelievable expression on my granny's face!

Before I conclude, here's a Bengali folk song for fervent fish lovers. Tangra tabu katan jai....by not so famous but a local artist in India.


1 Oct 2015

A Short Family Trip to Al Ain


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Welcome back.

After a long hiatus, here I am back with my travelogues again.


I often wonder why do people travel, what makes them travel to different places. Some like traveling with their families, some with their friends while some simply like to take off on their own. Is it the same reason for all, is it the same thing that drives the younger generation and the older ones alike? Surely not I believe. 

Every individual has a different reason for traveling: for relaxation, for a change, for adventure, learn about a new culture or taste new food. Whatever the reason maybe traveling for sure is a great change. At least for me. I am happy even if I go for a small outing. Now, I say that to console myself, for deep in my heart I have this urge to travel more and see the world, to learn and discover, explore and just have fun.

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." Mark Twain
It was September and Eid Al Adha holidays had arrived and traveling was on the cards for sure. It was going to be a four days holiday period including the weekend. My husband was awaiting these holidays to relax at home. While, I was waiting to explore some new place. However, he had no plans whatsoever to take up an international trip. Knowing this, my daughter and I insisted we take a short road trip at least. Finally, we got a little reluctant nod. So while our friends and neighbors had planned and booked their trip in advance, here we were planning on the eve of Eid Holidays for places to visit near Dubai. 

Before I proceed, a little introduction to UAE is required here.

UAE is made up of seven emirates: Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Qaiwain, Ras Al Khaimah and Fujairah. Each of these emirates has lots to offer in terms of sightseeing, shopping, leisure, adventures and more. We zeroed down to Al Ain.

The city of Al Ain  located in Abu Dhabi emirates, shares its borders with Oman, and is spread over an area of about 13,100 sq km. Al Ain is also known as the garden city due to its greenery and this was one reason we chose Al Ain over the other destinations. It is around 150 kms from Dubai by road and one of the closest too as compared to other locations. So if we could make an early start in the morning, we could return back home in Dubai by late evening atleast. 
Dubai to Al Ain route
Source: Google Maps
We marked the tourist destinations of our interest on the map and chalked out the route. Also we decided not to hop on and off like the tourists in the tourist bus from one destination to another, have a small glimpse and then hurry off to the next destination. That somehow leaves me very unsatisfied as we don't get to see and explore the place fully. We will move at our own pace, relax and then move ahead. Also, we weren't sure if all the locations would be open for public since we had planned our trip on the first day of the Eid holidays. But then we decided to take a chance. So that was our plan roughly.

Next morning, we gathered our traveling paraphernalia and started with our road trip. It was a bright sunny morning. My daughter was very happy and excited for the first 30 minutes of the trip, and then I had to engage her with stories, then some food and then stories again.... In short, I was kept occupied by my daughter on the entire road. The route from Dubai to Al Ain is not very complicated. We followed the Sheikh Mohammad bin Zayed road and continued to E66 (Dubai-Al Ain road) till we reached Al Ain.

There is not much difference in the landscape as we proceed from Dubai to Al Ain. The only noticeable difference is the white sand dunes of Dubai which change gradually to a reddish hue in Al Ain.  On reaching the Hili district of Al Ain, we were nearing our first stop. Our first stop was the Hili Archaeological Park which lies on the highway itself. We passed two roundabouts and then reached our park.
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Two roundabouts we crossed before the Hili Archaeological Park
The park is internationally renowned for its archaeological excavations which were conducted in the 1960s. It has a relaxed garden environment with benches, slides and swings for children. I liked the concept of the park that combines historical studies with a relaxed environment. So, while your kids are occupied with the swings and slides you can stroll around and explore the history of Al Ain. And for those who are not interested in the history, they can just relax in the green environs. 
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Left Inset: Hili Archaeological Park entrance
Right top and Right bottom insets: Closeup of the entrance structure
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Inset 1: The water fountain 
Inset 2: The Mosque inside the park
Inset 3: Sitting area covered with wooden trellis
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Top Left: Hili Settlement
Top Right: Hili Grand Tomb
Bottom: Tombs - E and N
While my daughter enjoyed the slides and the swings in the park, I walked around to see the archaeological excavations. Hili is the largest Bronze age site in the UAE and dates from the 3rd millennium B.C. Here's in brief about the exhibits in the park:
  • Hili Settlement was inhabited by a community which believed in life after death. This is indicated by the no. of stone monuments they built for their dead and buried along with personal possessions like pottery, stone vessels and copper implements. 
  • The inhabitants in that era lived in buildings constructed of sun-dried mud bricks.
  • The tombs are circular in shape made from carefully cut stones. The tomb shown in the top right inset has been rebuilt and is the largest in UAE in terms of the stones used. Observing minutely we also found some rock carvings on the tomb exteriors.
The park was deserted except for a few tourists here and there. We moved ahead after exploring all the exhibits there. Also, the weather was still hot and a leisurely walk in this heat was not a good idea. After all, it was September only and the heat was still on.

As we proceeded towards our next destination, we reached the town centre of Al Ain. The next tourist spots that we had marked on our map were all nearby within 5 to 10 kms distance of each other. Unlike Dubai, which has its skyline dotted with skyscrapers, we found low-rise commercial and residential establishments in Al Ain. 

Next on our list was Al Ain Oasis but it was already 12:00 in the noon, and we weren't ready for another walk in the sun. We decided to explore the Museums. Unfortunately, it was the first day of Eid and all the Museums and forts were closed. So we were not left with many options. The guard at the gate of the Al Ain Oasis advised us to visit the oasis around 4:00 in the afternoon since it would pleasant by then with the sun lowering down.

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Al Jahili Fort - viewed from the main road as we proceeded towards the Palace Museum
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Sheikh Zayed Palace Museum, Al Ain
It was not lunch time yet and we had stuffed ourselves with snacks on our way, so we decided to explore the Al Ain Mall. Al Ain Mall like the other Malls in the emirates is a premier shopping and leisure destination. The food court on the 2nd level has it all: Fast food, tea, roastery and so on. After a walk in the sun at the Hili Archaeological Park, the Mall was a cool reprieve. We headed to the Royal Mughal restaurant which was the only Indian restaurant we discovered. I was impressed by the menu card. It was a pretty booklet with details of the menu interspersed with highlights on the Mughal food and culture. We had a sumptuous meal comprising of dum pukt Biryanis, followed by refreshing cucumber raita.
My Travelogues Al Ain
The Royal Mughal Restaurant at Al Ain Mall
Thereafter, we explored the mall a bit more. My daughter was happy to discover an Ice-rink and her buddy Olaf (from the movie Frozen), and hidden behind the skating rink were life like mannequins of Snowhite with her seven dwarfs. The mall interiors were quite impressive; perhaps will post pictures of it in my later posts.

We waited for the sun to go down a bit for our next destination was Al Ain Oasis. The gateway to the Al Ain Oasis is visible from the main road itself. Spread over 3000 acres, the farm has internal roads shaded with rows and rows of palm plantations. The palm trees were laden with ripe dates ready to be plucked. We also spotted some lime trees and banana plantations. The farm area is divided into many grids and irrigation is done using the traditional 'Al Falaj' irrigation system. Tourists from all over the country as well as from abroad seemed to have flocked here by this time. The Oasis provided a shady respite in contrast to the Hili Archaeological park. Also, since we had waited for the sun to recede, it was cooler here in the Oasis. 

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Al Ain Oasis
After exploring the Oasis for an hour or so, we decided to head back to Dubai. There were lots of other places to be explored but then maybe during some other holidays. For now, we had enough of walk in the sun. Such trips, where long walks are mandatory, must be planned sometime in the months of winter. The heat somehow saps and drains your energy. 

Am getting a little lyrical here and quoting from the lyrics of 'Walk in the Sun' written and sung by Danny Jones:
Such a long, long way to go
And where I'm going I don't know
I'm just following the road
For a walk in the sun
For a walk in the sun....

To listen to the original song you can click on the link here. I loved the song..hope you guys out there enjoy it too.

At the end of the day, we were glad to have made it home safe and on time, to just jump on to our bed. Nothing could be more cozy or comforting than your pillow and bed at this time. This made me realize that one of the reason why people travel is perhaps to discern and acknowledge the importance of home!
"No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old familiar pillow" Lin Yutang