A short trip to Wadi Dayqah Dam, Oman

"Build a dam and take away water AWAY from 40 million people. Build a dam to pretend to BRING water to 40 million people." These are words from Arundhati Roy's - Cost of Living. 

Whatever, is the implication of building a dam, this one dam in Oman has purely altered the image of Oman. A trip to this dam is a must for all visitors and residents of Oman to view this construction wonder set in a desert terrain amidst mountains. 

The Wadi Dayqah Dam, Wilayat Quriyat, Oman

At Jebel Sifah Beach - Seeking Salvation

The first week of October was the week of Durga Pujo and it had passed away in a jiffy. For us Bengalis, it is the biggest event of the year. And here in Oman, we were lucky to have Eid Holidays following the Pujo week. So this trip was made with our family friends just after the Pujo, during the Eid Holidays, as an extension to the Pujo revelry. A beautiful addition to my travelogues.

Jebel Sifah Beach - Rendering in paintbrush

'Jebel' means mountain in Arabic and so far as the word 'Sifah' is concerned, I have absolutely no clue as to what it means. One thing we have encountered several times in Oman is the non-uniformity in the spelling of places. Hence, it was not surprising that as we traveled through the mountains and valleys, we came across signboards with different spelling versions each time - Jebel Sifa, Jabal Sifah, Jebel Shifa, Jabal Sifya, and even Jebel Syifah. Searching on the net, all I could gather is that 'Shifa' in Islamic tradition is a method of healing. Maybe the Jebel mountains had something to do with the healing power. 

If you search on google maps, it will show Jebel Sifah at a distance of about 50kms from the Muscat city by road passing through Wadi Kabir, Qantab road, Al Jissah and the village of Yiti. We came across some odd named villages such as Yanket (@ 30kms from Muscat), some fishing villages and wadis and then finally reached the area called Bandar Al Khiran from where we found our way to the Jebel Sifah Beach. 

And yes, stopping by the wadis, I couldn't stop myself from singing the bollywood number - "yeh haseen wadiyan, yeh khula aasmaan..."

A stop at the Wadis just after the Yanket village 

A fishing boat

 Road along the the wadis

Fishing villages on the way

For a long time, the rugged mountains only gave us company. The road to our destination was built from cutting in sections of the mountain range. If you suffer from motion sickness like one of our friends did, a word of advice from me would be to carry some medicines with you, for the road to Jebel Sifah is a long and a winding one, taking you up and down through the mountains, and motion sickness can certainly ruin your trip. Also, there were no fuel filling stations on the way, so thankfully we had our car's tank full before beginning the trip. No night driving is advised since the roads at times were steep, sometimes narrow with sharp and sudden turns; hence it could be dangerous as no proper signs or directions were available.

The white mountain goats from the village

A Beautiful village house

It took us a good one-hour time to reach our destination. We passed through Hajjar Mountains, encountered wadis (valleys) with beautiful water bodies, fishing villages with beautiful houses and we also spotted some white goats, a couple of labor camps and finally arrived at the destination marked with a signboard that said "Sammak". By the way, "Sammak" means the Fisherman.

"Sammak" - Signboard signaling arrival to the beach

Now this was a beach with no shelter whatsoever. We just spotted one restaurant named 'As Sammak' (A seafood restaurant) that had a signboard saying 'Closed for this time of the year' and there were some stone showers (not maintained though) and a parking space. However, the beach was pristine and beautiful with blue water and ahead of us lay the vast stretch of golden sand and some palm trees lined up near the entrance. A few cottony clouds floated above the mountains and the sea and made the beach look all the more beautiful.

The closed restaurant

Line of palm trees adorning the beach

Since, it was holiday time, the people had arrived earlier in the day, had spread their tents and were relaxing under colorful beach umbrellas. We also spotted some people with their fishing gears, some playing football, some swimming, some just walking along the shore. Far away we could spot a few white buildings which were actually an integrated tourism complex being developed at Jebel Sifah. 

The tents on the beach

The blue sea and the golden sand of the beach

Later as we built our own tent and settled down, we had a barbecue of smoked chicken and paneer tikkas. It was mid-day with the sun at its peak, the breeze was warm and steamy, and we had the heat pricking our skin and the hot sand searing our feet. But this would not stop our kids from playing in the sand. They had the fun of their lifetime. It seemed like each one of them was taking a bath in the sand and were unmindful of their sweat gleaming in the sun.

The Barbecue

Children playing with sand to their heart's content

After the Barbecue party, all of us headed towards the sea. While, we ladies, soaked our feet in the warm waters, our husbands and children swam in the sea. We, Indian women, are generally happy when our husbands and children are happy! So, there we were, standing by the sea holding towels in our hands; watching our families having fun, unmindful of the scorching sun, tanning away in delight. 

Swimming in the sea

Slowly as the sun's harshness melted down the sea, the crowd started building up and the beach got packed with people from all around the city. It was time for us to leave and bid adieu to the beach.

Crowded Beach as the sun sets

Nature's play with the Mountains, Clouds and the Sand

The sea was beautiful as ever. The turquoise water of the sea tempted me again to write a few lines again. Though it may sound a little remorseful to all of you, a visit to the beach as always brings out a lot of emotions from me and I can't help it if I sound wistful each time.

The pebbles on the beach

So here are a few lines inspired by the sea, the setting sun, the sand and the scattered pebbles.

Seeking salvation with the setting sun

Walking by the beach,

The wet sands had much to teach...

Holding hands walking by your side,
Thought I would cross all the tides.

I made a castle in the wet sand,

Knowing that the waves will not let it stand.

Collecting the pebbles scattered on the beach,

My dreams lay shattered beyond my reach.

Imagining the sea devoid its blue hue,

That's how my life would be without you.

But long ago you embarked on a journey,  

I was never a part of your itinerary.

The clouds drifted in the orange sky,
No more in my dreams would I dare to fly.

And as I take the last look at the setting sun,

All I seek is salvation.

While watching the song 'Jiya' from the Bollywood movie 'Gunday', I realized to my utter delight that I had taken pictures of the same locations where this song was shot.

A still from the movie 'Gunday' shot in the location near Yanket
Source: Youtube.com

The Fishing boat and the same location used in the movie 'Gunday'
captured from my lenses

A visit to the Muscat Modern Gate

An unplanned visit leading to an unexpected discovery:

"Never lose an opportunity of seeing anything that is beautiful", Ralph Waldo Emerson

The Muscat Modern Gate - A pencil sketch by me

It was during the Dashami morning of Durga Puja, just at the beginning of this month, when we happened to visit the Shiva temple in the old city area of Muscat, and we passed in a rush from underneath a huge arched opening in a gate. The Gate built in traditional Omani style with pink sandstone, has a series of small niche windows, towers at two ends and crenellations on the top, and resembled a fort-like structure. We decided to stop there and click a few snaps on our return. 

The Gate spanned over two important roads, one leading to the old city and another out of it leading towards the harbour. The Gateway stands at a crucial juncture separating the old city from the new city of Muscat and it signals your arrival to the old city area.

Muscat Modern Gate, Al Saidiya Street, Muttrah

The entrance leading to a circular stairway 

On our return, I got out of our car and while my husband parked his car on a side lane, I started clicking a few snaps. Soon I was joined by my daughter and my husband. My daughter rushed towards a small arched entrance and we ran behind her. Thanks to her, we discovered a circular stairway, leading us onto the next level. 

Somebody has truly said: "Blessed are the curious for they shall have adventures".

The circular stairway - an element of surprise awaited us ahead

I did not count the number of steps but guessing from the height of the arched gateway, there must have been some 50 low rise steps. It was a comfortable climb though. The stairway led us to a tower covered with a wooden ceiling, that finally led us to a grand door announcing the presence of a Museum. We were in for a surprise -  a Museum on a Gateway! 

Our Exploration:

Since it was Friday, the Museum was closed. So we just walked around and happily observed the surroundings. The arched wooden panelled entry door itself was a beautiful piece of work, adorned with red and green glass pieces on the top, with a gold plated relief of the Archway embossed above the door.

The Entry door to the Museum

A corridor, with a series of arches and a row of small fenestration, led us to a vast open green space. There was a manicured lawn in the garden interspersed with wooden benches. There were some small green bushes, rows of bougainvillea flowers lining up the garden edges, and some trees too scattered in the green space. 

The arched corridor leading to a green open space;
Note the play of light created by the fenestration

The lattice work in the fenestration

The garden area interspersed with trees and 
wooden benches for relaxing 

Rows of bougainvillea lined up the garden edges

From this very roof garden, we could see the beautiful vista surrounding us. And I could capture some beautiful pictures through my lenses. On one side, we could see the Muscat Harbour, with a cruise liner far away and the blue sea beyond it. And on the other side we could see the motorway and roads leading into and out of the old city. 

View towards Muscat Harbour

View towards the old city with motorways 

Not satisfied with one click, I kept taking one picture after the another, and I had to grudgingly drag myself out of the place, when my husband tauntingly reminded me that we didn't have the whole day to ourselves, for we were supposed to visit another Durga Puja venue miles away. So we hurriedly rushed out of the roof garden and hopped into our car and proceeded to the Puja venue.

This place must be visited by those who are interested in the Art, Architecture and History of Oman. 

I made a small video using a few stills that captures our trip and highlights the Art and Architecture that embodies the Modern Gate of Muscat.

A video clipping of the visit to the Muscat Gate Museum

Some facts from the web: 

I later found out that till the 1970s, the gates in the town wall of Muscat were closed three hours after the sunset. No one was allowed to walk after sunset unless he had a lighted lantern in his hand. The motor traffic went through a hole in the town wall. This Gateway that we now see is a modern version of the old city gate built across the motorway.

The Wikipedia highlights the facts that the Museum opened in January 2001 and contains displays of Oman's history from Neolithic times to the present. It has some special exhibits on Muscat's water springs, the ancient wells, underground channels, the souks, houses, mosques, harbours and forts. This makes me think that we have to visit the Gateway again,  to see those rare exhibits of the Museum ourselves and get a better understanding of the Art, Architecture and History of Oman.

Concluding :

As they say, that not knowing the future is all the more fun, and surprises are like a ray of hope that keeps you alive in this mundane world. This unplanned trip was full of surprises indeed. We were surprised to find a museum on the top of a gateway. On seeing the Arched Gateway from the ground level, it is beyond one's imagination, that it could house a vast green space above. Also, the beautiful views, that we got to see on both the sides of the Gate, kept us spellbound for quite some time. 

For my daughter, it was like turning into 'Alice' and discovering the "Wonderland" above the gateway. She loved every moment of the trip and I hope she treasures it in her memory. And if not, when she grows up, I hope she finds this blog of mine to relive her memories. 

Durga Puja 2014 in Muscat

The four days of Durga Puja passed in a jiffy and here I am presenting the snapshot of the Pujo revelry in Muscat. This was the first time in my seven years in the Gulf that I could attend the Durga Pujo both in the morning and evening and witness most of the rituals and ceremonies with my husband and daughter. This Pujo was the most enlightening one, since I gathered a few tidbits about the pujo rituals too (Earlier I was not as serious about the Pujo rituals, all I can recollect is the fun part and still I am not as serious but it was fun knowing about the facts associated with every ritual which reinforced the dedication from my side). 

Apart from Durga Puja celebration by the Bengali Association of Muscat in the Shiva temple, another Bengali group performs Durga Puja in Seeb region (towards Waves in Muscat) with equal fervour and dedication and this year was their fourth year in a row. The venue is about 20km distance from Muscat city and this year it was our destination for all the fun and revelry associated with the Durga Puja. The Puja ceremonies were all performed in a villa, leaving sufficient space for prasad and bhog distribution, dhunuchi dance and activities for children too.

I came across many Bengalis from different parts of India; some from Bengal, some from North Eastern states and some expatriate friends who have settled in Muscat over the years and in this process I made some new friends too.

The Idols and the decor

The Durga idol was this time the size of dolls and some kids wanted to play with the Goddess dolls. The pandal design included the idols on a nauka (boat shaped) made from thermocol and beautifully decorated. The rituals were performed in all glory as usual. 

The Durga Puja Decor - Boat shaped pandal

Shashti ( Sixth day)

The Pujo began with Shashti with 'Bodhon' rituals wherein face of Durga is unveiled and this marks the beginning of the celebrations. The children in their best attire romped around the entire pujo premises while the ladies decked up in their best colourful saris and jewelry adorned the premises. The Gents too gathered around in groups with their Adda session in full swing too. 

Children in traditional attire

Beautiful Bengali ladies in their traditional best

Ashtami and Navami

We offered Pushapanjali on Navami (ninth day) morning and happened to miss the pushapanjali on other days since they were performed in the earlier part of the day. This time the Puja celebration of 5 days was shortened to four days with Navami day overlapping with the Ashtami and Dashami day. It was nice to watch the Sandhi Pujo which was performed by offering 108 lotuses and 108 diyas (earthen lamps) were lightened. This typical ritual is performed at the end of Ashtami and beginning of Navami. We all got a chance to light the diyas.

Lotus flowers, fruits, flowers being offered during Sandhi pujo

Lighting of 108 diyas during Sandhi pujo 

Dashami

The last day ended with Dashami Pujo followed by the customary 'Durga Boron' wherein before the Visarjan, married women do Aarti, touch paan leaves on the idols, apply sindoor to idols, put sweets on the lips of the idol.

Durgamaaer Boron 

Sindoor Khela

Thereafter is the most awaited event of the Day - Sindur Khela. Most of the ladies and my friends truly wait for this occasion, wherein they apply sindoor to each other and offer sweets. It is almost like playing 'Holi' again but with sindoor only and a much different feeling. Though both the festivals signify the victory of good over evil, 'sindur khela' is played solely by married women symbolizing married life. The ritual owns its origin to the fact that Durga Maa after her five-day stay at her mother's house goes back to her mother-in-law's house. So we give her a special treatment by offering sweets and performing aarti, and applying sindoor on her. I wasn't much aware of the procedure, but a gentle and sweet Mashima (an elderly lady) instructed me with the details. The younger members touch feet of the elders to seek blessings while the men embrace each other. 

A beautiful Bengali lady after sindoor khela

The Bhog

There were prasad and bhog distribution to all who came to offer obeisance to the Goddess. The bhog included all the Bengali delicacies including the khichuri, chutney and payesh on Ashtami day. Everyone who came enjoyed the sumptuous prasad and savored the sweets including laddoos, kalajamun, rosogullas, payesh, jalebis and gajar halwa too. The bhog on some days also included hot luchis, pulao, delicious cholar dal and not to forget the different chutneys each day including the tangy aamer (mango) chutney, the usual tomato chutney and pineapple chutney too.

Aamer chutney

Volunteers serving the bhog

A fun element in the Pujo was a Puchka stall from Kolkata and it did a good job every day selling off all its puchkas.

The Puchka stall

We also went to Shiva temple to offer our prayers to Goddess Durga on the Dashami morning. Since the day coincided with beginning of Eid holidays in Muscat, the temple was crowded in the morning, with lines of devotees standing to catch a glimpse of the Goddess. 

Dashmi morning -Durga Puja 2014 at Shiva temple, Muscat

The Shiva temple, Muscat on Dashami morning

This Durga Pujo was indeed a celebration filled with fun, lights, colors and sweets. In this era of digitization and Facebook, life has become totally mechanized, and these moments likes the ones spent during the Durga Pujo make us forget the outside world, at least  for the five days of Puja, and as we take refuge in the pandal life becomes  memorable endowed with the beautiful moments of joy, savoring and sharing sweets with friends, joking and poking at friends, togetherness with family and friends, and at the same time paying obeisance to the Goddess Durga. 

The crowd on the last day of the Pujo - Dashami night

So as we go back to our routine life; schools with scary teachers, offices with irritating bosses, home management with housewives dreading cooking, and so on... We look forward to all the fun and merriment again next year.

Quoting these lines that I dug up somewhere on the internet;
Dhaker Awaj holo mridu, Mayer hasi holo mlaan,
Eibar Mago biday tobe, Aashe bochor Abaar Hobe,
Sabai ke Ma rakhis sukhe,
Bijoya hok mishti muke.
Wishing all my family members and friends a 'Shubho Bijoya'.